Enclosure and Space Requirements

As a general rule, snakes require relatively little space because of their limited and non-exertional activity. Generally speaking, the size if the enclosure should allow inclusion of certain required items (discussed below) and still allow inclusion of certain required items (discussed below) and still allow the snake adequate space to stretch out and move about. Snakes will use both the horizontal and vertical space within their enclosure if provisions are made for this activity. Aquaria or other similar glass or plexiglass-lined enclosures are usually most suitable because they allow optimum visualization of and safety for the occupant(s), and help to maintain desirable environmental temperatures and generally high relative humidity levels. Wire-lined enclosures may afford adequate visualization of the snake but certainly can not contribute to the maintenance of desirable environmental temperature and humidity levels. Furthermore, such enclosures promote injuries to the rostrum (nose and surrounding tissues) as snakes repeatedly attempt to "escape" through the wire mesh. Any enclosure used must have a secure top and be escape-proof. All hinges and locks should be secure.All snakes are Potential "escape artists" and many (especially the California King snakes) can escape from almost any apparently secure enclosure.

Floor Coverings and Enclosure Items

Unprinted newsprint, butcher paper, paper towels, terry cloth towels and indoor-outdoor carpeting are the most suitable materials for covering the bottom of a snake's enclosure. In fact, the first two materials mentioned can be cut to size and placed many layers thick on to the floor of the enclosure. When the top layer(s) are soiled, they can be easily removed, leaving clean, dry paper. This makes cleaning of the enclosure very quick and efficient. If indoor-outdoor carpeting is used, it is best to have 2-3 pieces cut to the correct dimensions. This way, replacements can be used while the soiled piece is cleaned and disinfected.

Under no circumstances should pea gravel, kitty litter, crushed corncob material or wood shavings be used. These are unquestionably more visually aesthetic than most of the materials mentioned above; however, they are unsuitable because they trap moisture and filth, provide unlimited "hiding places" for external parasites, and make enclosures very difficult to clean. Furthermore, these types of particulate matter are easily and inadvertently eaten while the snake is feeding. This can cause mechanical injury to or obstruction of the digestive tract.

Various objects should be included within a snake's enclosure that occupy its vertical area. These include sturdy branches of various hardwood trees or those fabricated from artificial materials, dillweed, grapevine, hanging ropes, and shelves situated along the sides of the enclosure. Visual Security It is very important to provide some privacy for a captive snake. Many snakes will not feed without the privacy afforded by some degree of visual security. This can be accomplished by providing a "hide bar" into which the snake can retreat when it feeds or at other times when privacy is desired. Visual security can also be provided by the use and strategic placement of silk artificial plants (and trees if the enclosure is large enough to accommodate them). Silk plants are visually pleasing and easy to clean and disinfect They require minimal maintenance, help to augment the relative humidity level of the enclosure if the foliage is frequently misted, and can complement a snake's ability to camouflage itself, there by providing visual security.

Climatic Considerations

Tropical snakes kept in captivity (boa constrictors, pythons, etc) require relatively warm temperatures and high relative humidity. Daytime temperatures should range between 80 and 85 F. Night time temperature can fall between 70-75 F without creating problems for most snakes. Native American snakes do well when maintained at 70-80 F.

Relatively large enclosures can be supplied with heat lamps or heaters equipped with thermostats, whereas small enclosures may be adequately heated by placing a heating pad directly underneath them. Exposed heat sources must be shielded to protect snakes from serious bums as they attempt to warm themselves by coiling next to them.

Large and small enclosures should also provide the snake a focal (spot) source of warmth. Small snakes should be offered a hot rock Large snakes can use one or more well-protected and water-proofed heating pads These appliances allow the snake direct, but safe, contact with the heat source, which helps to raise their body temperature. This allows the snake to be more active and increases their rate of digestion. Check these appliances frequently for malfunction and periodically check the snake for evidence of burns because snakes generally do not move away from heat-generating appliances even if they are being severely burned.

Lighting

Ideally, it would be advantageous for all captive reptiles to be housed in such a way that they could be exposed to and benefit from direct, unfiltered sunlight during the daylight hours every day. This represents the healthiest and most natural situation. Unfortunately, this set of circumstances can rarely be fulfilled by hobbyists because it is neither practical or pass- idle. The next best solution is to use an artificial ultraviolet light source rather than fluorescent or incandescent light bulbs. One or more Vitalites (Duro-Lite Lamps, Duro-Test Corp, Lyndhurst, NJ 117071) should be used to illuminate the enclosure during the daylight hours. To approximate a natural photo-period, it is best to supply 10-12 hours of daylight and 12-14 hours of darkness each day, with a gradual increase in the number of hours of light in the spring and a gradual decrease in the fall and winter months.

Questions should be directed to our office, 502-245-7863